Palma-Mai 2011
Schon bei meinem Weg in die Altstadt war ich am Mercat Santa Catalina im gleichnamigen Viertel vorbeigekommen, damals war es noch etwas zu früh gewesen und so startete ich einen zweiten Versuch. Der Markt an der Placa Navegacio ist der älteste Markt Palma’s und hat einige schöne Restaurants um sich geschart.
Er wird von den Köchen der umliegenden Restaurants, aber auch von den Spitzenköchen der Feinschmeckerlokale Palma’s hoch geschätzt. Das hat im Laufe der Zeit natürlich auch die Preise nach oben getrieben.
( Bitte auf ein Photo klicken, um ins Album zu gelangen)
Hier gibt es aber auch fast alle Spezialitäten, regionale und überregionale: Den Schafskäse “ Roncal“, einen wirklich guten Blauschimmelkäse “ Cabralles“ und “ Mahon“ einen quadratischen Kuhkäse aus Menorca. Zu dem Käse wird einem oft „Membrillo“ ein festes Quittengelee empfohlen.
Dann natürlich luftgetrocknete Schinken von Bellotas, schwarzen Schweinen, die mit Eicheln gemästet wurden- einen sehr guten Jamon iberico de bellota von Hersteller Marco Salamca bekommt man ab 115 € pro Kilo, ein ideales Mitbringsel, wenn man es sich denn leisten möchte.
Es gibt Mini-Artischocken und acht Sorten unterschiedliche Tomaten, mallorcinische Granatäpfel, die eher etwas säuerlich schmecken und gerne für “ Spanferkel in Granatapfelsauce“ verwendet werden und Zitronen aus Soller, unregelmäßig geformt, aber mit einem sehr intensiven, fruchtigen Geschmack.
Wichtig zu erwähnen sind natürlich die Fischstände, die nicht nur Brassen, Doraden, Scampi , Tuna und Schwertfisch in unvergleichlicher Frische präsentieren, sondern Spezialitäten wie „Llampuga“, den sogenannten Gewitterfisch mit recht festem Fleisch und „Jonquilo“, kleine Fischchen, die im Ganzen durch einen Teig gezogen und frittiert werden.
Nicht vergessen darf man das reichhaltige Angebot an Essigsorten, Ölen, Saucen und exclusiven Konserven. Und natürlich auch nicht das „Can Joan Frau“,ein winziges Lokal-eher ein schmaler Stand, in dem es die beste Paella Palma’s geben soll. Eine Vorbestellung zwischen 11:00 Uhr und 12:00 ist notwendig, sonst kann man nicht eingeplant werden. Aber mein Ziel lag woanders: Ich wollte ins „Duke“, ein Lokal, nach einem berühmten Surfer der 30er Jahre benannt – Duke Kahanamoku – der das Surfen seinerzeit revolutioniert haben soll. Zu seinen Ehren haben die beiden Inhaber, beide selbst begeisterte Surfer, ihr Lokal nach ihm benannt. Und so ging ich in die Carrer Soler, ganz in der Nähe des Marktes und suchte die Nummer 36.
Ich fand ein Lokal,an dem zwar draussen “ Bunker’s “ stand, aber das hatte ich nicht so genau wahrgenommen, denn in Ermangelung von Hausnummern suchte ich nach Hinweisen auf die Surferwelt. Und schon von draussen waren hier etliche Photos von Surfern zu sehen. Und so ging ich hinein. Drin erwartete mich Luigi, wie ich später erfuhr, ein Römer. Freundlich, aufgeschlossen und unwahrscheinlich fix. Mittags war er Koch und Bedienung in Personalunion.
Er bot mir das Menue de Dia an und das begann mit einer „Sopa fria de Pepino,Yogurt y Menta“ einer kalten Suppe aus Gurken,Yogurt und frischer Pferminze, fantastisch abgeschmeckt und mit einem Stück frisch gebratenem Lachs, das er von einer ganzen Seite herunterschnitt. Das Ganze wurde mit einer ungeheuren Präzision und Geschwindigkeit vor meinen Augen gezaubert, in einer winzig kleinen, offenen Küche, hinter der man am breiten Tresen sitzen und essen konnte. „Show Cooking“, wie ich es liebe! Und die bisher beste “ Sopa Fria , die ich gegessen habe!
Das kann gerade bei einem Only-One-Person-Business nur mit perfekter Vorbereitung funktionieren, die auf jahrelanger Erfahrung beruht. Luigi lebte seit 15 Jahren auf Mallorca, hatte aber schon eine Zeit in Schottland gekocht und gelebt und so konnten wir uns auf Englisch austauschen. Das ich sein Lokal aus einem Reisebericht kannte, wunderte ihn, denn darauf war er noch nicht angesprochen worden.
Hier und nach dem nächsten Absatz waren zwei Photos von Postern, die Bunker Spreckels darstellten. Aus Copyright-bedingten Gründen musste ich sie leider entfernen. Dieser Tatbestand war vorher weder mir noch Luigi bekannt. Ich bitte das zu entschuldigen.
Das Bunker’s hat seinen Namen übrigens von Bunker Spreckels, Erbe des deutschen Spreckels-Zuckervermögens, berühmter Surfer, Playboy und Stiefsohn von Clark Gable, dessen wechselvolle Lebensgeschichte vom Hippie-Surfer zum internationalen Playboy ihn aufgrund seines ausschweifenden Lebenswandels in einen frühen Tod mit 27 Jahren führte. Man nannte ihn auch: „Surfing Divine Prince of Decadence“ . In jedem Fall eine schillernde Persönlichkeit.
Weiter ging es mit „Brocheta di Solomillo de pollo “ Blanc de Blanc“ con Couscous e Verduras al Pesto de Albahaca“ also einem Spieß von der Hähnchenbrust in einer Weißweinsauce mit Couscous und Gemüsen in einer Basilikum-Pesto. Dazu den Wein, der auch Grundlage für die Sauce war, einfach nur gut ! Man fühlt sich wohl in diesem kleinen Lokal, das jetzt Luigis Heimat ist und in dem er nach seiner Philosophie keine Gäste empfängt, sondern Freunde und solche, die es werden wollen. Er möchte sie an seinem Leben partizipieren lassen und umgekehrt auch an ihrem Leben teilnehmen.
Ein anspruchsvoller Ansatz, der aber zu funktionieren scheint, wie ich abends noch feststellen konnte. Zunächst aber gab es noch “ Mousse de Chocolate con fresas“. Nachdem Luigi und ich uns verabschiedet hatten, ging ich zurück ins Hotel. Während des Packens ( Am nächsten Morgen ging der Flieger nach Deutschland um 08:00 Uhr ) ließ mir die Unklarheit mit dem „Bunker’s“und dem „Duke“ keine Ruhe . Zwei Lokale in Einem? Also fuhr ich abends wieder hin. Und nachdem nun auch das Duke geöffnet hatte, konnte ich feststellen, das beide Lokale Tür an Tür nebeneinander lagen und beide hatten sich einen bekannten Surfer für ihren Namen ausgesucht. Ich klärte Luigi über meinen Irrtum auf und blieb zum Essen ( Übrigens wieder exzellent : Hausgemachte Ravioli a la Mama mit zweierlei Saucen, ein Rumpsteak auf den Punkt und herrliche Kostproben von vielen Gerichten, die die anderen Gäste bestellten). Abends war ein weiterer Koch zu seiner Unterstützung da und eine ebenso attraktive wie freundliche Bedienung. Es kamen an diesem Abend noch viele mallorquinische Gäste, zwei große Gesellschaften und kleinere Gruppen und man merkte, das sie wirklich Freunde waren und nicht nur Gäste .
Dieses kleine Lokal mit seiner speziellen, familiären und unprätentiösen Atmosphäre war für mich das Highlight von Mallorca und vielleicht sogar ein Grund, noch einmal wieder zu kommen. Gracies Luigi!
Nach der Lektüre dieses Textes und den stimmungsvollen Photos möchte “ man “ gleich den Koffer packen !!!! Herrlich !!!
Vielleicht sollte der Verfasser als nächstes ein Kochbuch verfassen, das fände bestimmt reißenden Absatz !!!
Petra
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